Friday, January 8, 2010

Dirty South Bouldering Trip

Shay Rosser,

We started early on Sunday the 27th of December and we were about to embark on a one week- long send fest to bring in the new year! The first day was full of driving and high spirits. We arrived at the or camping area at around 9:00 p.m. this was the first time that any of us had been there. It was a little place called the "Lilly Pad" the setup there was really cool. They had a big roofed shelter that was dubbed the "permatent" and it had a community fire ring, chairs, spar coats, a table and some old coolers. The night was cold, I made the mistake of not putting my tent up and slept in the permatent. Needless to say, I didn't really sleep well that night. We awoke to the sun shining and cold wind. After everone was up we made breakfast sandwiches and hit the road ready to climb. The weather was just right when we hit the boulder field, 55 degrees and sunny! All of us warmed up on the warm up wall with some easy but really fun problems. Louis, Tim, Dan, and I went to climb this sweet looking boulder called Flexorsize V7. It was a little tricky at the start but Tim put it together in a few goes. After that we went to get on this awesome classic V4 called Hemlock Arete, it was super cool! The holds were placed in a really abstract way, and all the moves were just really fun. Just around the corner from that was another radd V7 called Jack Slap! Once again the only one able to climb it was Tim. Once the sun was on its way out and the heat of the day was going with it, we hiked to the van and headed to Rocktown in Lafayette, Georgia.

When we arrived in Lafayette, I got out of the van and was struck by the freezing cold wind that was sweeping Chandelier Mountain. All of us hurried as we set up camp and started dinner. We ate, we talked, we slept, and in the morning we climbed. In the warm up area there is this really classic highball called Huaco Simulator V2. Its like 25 feet of jugs on an overhang. I thought the climb was super fun cuz it got your heart pumping a little bit. After the warm up session Dan, Louis, Tim, and I got on Skin Graft V6. We worked it for a while and Tim and Louis sent but Dan and I have some unfinished Business. We left that prlblem and went down the boulder field a little bit to get on the ever proud Croc Block V5 this climb is not only tall it has a committing move to a gaston for the finale move. Tim worked the V7 variation sit start as Dan, Louis, and I worked the stand start. we worked and worked but Dan was the only one to make the commitment and make the send. Time passed fast the first day and the sun was going down so we packed up and went back to camp. I was ready to go to say the least because i was climbing like shit that day and i was hungry as f%*# (you know what i mean). When we got back to the camp we made a massive amount of loaded macaroni. It had sausage, bell peppers, spinach, tomatoes, and chives needless to say this shit was dank!! And we didn't stop there mind you, we made a really good pineapple upside down cake over the fire in a dutch oven. Once fed and warmed up in my sleeping bag I crashed and woke fresh and ready for a good day of climbing. After warming up we went to the Sherman Photo Roof were Dan and I had some work to do. The goal of the trip for Dan and I was to climb a V6, since neither of us had ever climbed that grade and it was a little past due. to make a long story short we battled with this awesome climb called Nose Candy V6 for about 4 hours, and then we sent it. We gave it upwards of 15 to 20 goes each and last go we sent it one after the other. Dan got on the problem and worked his way out the overhanging roof until he was at the crux move, he fixed his feet and hucked for the hold and crushed it! He grabbed it so hard he busted a blood blister on his hand and blood sprayed the hold. Then it was my turn right after him but we got video so it can do the talking for me. Once we were done with that the whole group headed to triple slap a classic V3 and finished the day there. The rain was coming so we loaded our shit in the trailer and went south once more to Alabama.

We pulled into Horse Pens 40 around 11:00 p.m., payed for camping and climbing, setup and went to sleep. We all woke up late because it was raining and we weren't going to do much climbing. Once we all got up we went into town to get a good game of Disc Golf in. If I do say so myself I crushed that course like it was my job! I'm thinking about going Pro, its not a big deal. Once done with the game we went back to camp and tested the rock for a dryness to test the waters for a night session. To our surprise the rock was dry, and we went to a project of mine Red Neck V6+. We got in a good session and I worked out some of the beta for the problem, and not to mention it was New Years Eve. I went to bed with the moves of Red Neck in my head playing all night long. When I woke up thats were I went right after breakfast. Dan and I were ready to go, we knew the moves and knew what we had to do. I got on about ten times before I was able to make the send. I have to say that was a great way to bring in the new year. Right after me Dan sent it as well. I spent the remainder of my last day walking around and getting on things I thought were fun and wasn't worried about sending a project. It felt good just to climb. We packed up the next morning and made the drive home. It was a awesome trip and will try to go on the trip in the spring, hope to see some more people there.

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